Bandung was where the Dutch went to escape the heat of Batavia, and the Art Deco buildings along Jalan Braga are still standing.
South of the city the land climbs into tea country: steep, immaculate terraces that go on for hours, worked since the 19th century.
Kawah Putih, the white crater, is the set piece: a pale green sulphur lake in a bleached crater bowl, reachable without a hike.